Saharan Sand Boa Male
Perfect Mullet’s Sand Boa (egg layers).
Handleability and Temperament
Müller’s are very docile snakes. Although, they aren’t always the calmest ( at least in my experience) and are a little more active then Kenyans when handling they are still very handleable. They are unlikely to bite and even if you have to go digging for them in their aspen their first instinct is to slither away and not fight back.
As with any reptile, there needs to be a cool side and a warm side. The warm side should be heated with a heat mat and a thermostat. You should also have a digital thermometer/hygrometer to keep track of that. They should have at least 2 hides and a humid hide is optional until they are in blue. I personally keep mine in at all time just not moist constantly as to not raise the humidity. A water dish that they can fit in is optional but would be a good decision. You should offer clutter even if you believe they won’t use it. Just because they burrow during the day does not mean they don’t explore at all at night above the aspen. I would offer some climbing enrichment as well. You can bury the hides slightly if you so wish.
For any snake, their enclosure should be as long or longer than they are. They should be able to stretch completely on one side. For a male, a 20 gallon long is a bare minimum and for a female I would go bigger with a 40 gallon. With any reptile, bigger is better and you should always, if given the room, go as big as possible. You should only ever house one snake in one enclosure. They are solitary reptiles and cannot be housed together.
Since Müller’s need a pretty low humidity, aspen is a very good choice substrate wise. You should offer plenty of aspen ( about 5-7 inches ) so that they have room to “explore” the substrate and make many burrows. A sand and organic top soil mix could also work. Same with a arid bioactive mix. Like Kenyan Sand boas, because they have the word sand in their name doesn’t mean they should be housed on it. It can still cause impaction and aspen will hold burrows better anyway. For the first six weeks of having your reptile, you should keep them quarantined on paper towel and minimal decor.
Temperature and Humidity:
Their hot spot should range between 90-94 F and the cool side of the tank can range from 75-85 and additional heating can be added during the winter if needed. The humidity needs to be quite low. 30-40% with a bump to 50% for during shed. This is a little more flexible then it would be for a Kenyan. They reside is areas close to wetter areas and can withstand a little bit of fluctuation. Just because it is more flexible does not mean that you should not check to make sure your humidity is staying on the safe side. Please check often to make sure everything is okay.
Their meal should be slightly larger or at least the same size as the widest part of their body. Younger boas can be fed every 5 days, sub-adults every 5-7 days and adults every 7-10 days. They won’t need to eat huge meals but might end up reaching to an adult mouse, maybe slightly larger. They should be fed FT (frozen-thawed) and are often known to be picky eaters. Hunger strikes happen to the best of us and if it isn’t a problem with your husbandry and no weight is being lost, you don’t need to worry right away.
These snakes, while often mistaken for the Kenyan Sand boa, they are unique in their own way and I believe they make very good beginner snakes. As owning one as my first snake I’ve learned a lot and I am so glad I got one. These derpy little creatures are some of my favorite reptiles right now and I couldn’t imagine not owning one. If you are looking for a smaller, lesser know species to take care of, I 100% suggest these amazing little snakes.
- Store Name: Fresh Genetics
- Vendor: Patrick Starr
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